Letter 765 To my Father and Mother
Philadelphia Arch street July 3d. 1790 Saturday
A second letter from the paternal pen of my honoured Father, hath bestowed sweet serenity upon my bosom, and by assuring me that my efforts to communicate pleasure as successful, hath added a fresh motive for diligence -- The probability is that the sufferings of my beloved Mother, will never cease but with the career of mortality [--] Right happy should I be could I render her precious life more tolerable -- But submission is a lesson which however indocile we may chance to be, we are yet all intimately necessitated to learn -- The intelligence from Fitz William, it must have given you a delicious moment. -- Upon the far distant banks of the Delaware it hath afforded me a song of domestic joy -- I trust your next letter will announce to me the birth of a little being, who will possess an undoubted claim to my affection. My Sister ought to have written, there is hardly any price within our reach, which we should consider too high to purchase intelligence from our friends, and we unitedly request, with sincere, and honest tenderness, to greet every relative for we can assure them, without equivocation, that they are indelibly engraven upon our hearts -- I saw a gentleman, the other day, whose brother is one of St. Clair's party upon the river, he hath recently received a letter from Marietta, which letter informs him, that the Governor Secretary, etc were not expected until August, or September, and you will consequently cease to wonder, you have no late tidings from my brother -- your letters, my dear Sir, speak the heart of a Father, can they want an additional recommendation -- believe me they are received, with becoming gratitude, and they are indeed balm to the bosom of your daughter -- I am pained to learn that fortune still continues to frown upon you, but the present scene will close, and beyond, the prospect of unfading bliss, is unclouded. The rapid growth of this City is wonderful -- It is little more than a Century, since it was the residence of untutored Nature -- The beautiful water of the Delaware, and its rich, and fertile banks, confessed only a savage Lord -- Now, Arts, and Sciences, in all the variety of their improvements flourish here -- Philadelphia is indeed the Metropolis of the American World and, it is advancing forward to a state of high perfection -- There is, however, a whimsical kind of singularity, remarkable in the Majority of the inhabitants of this Capital -- For example, an elegant Carriage, superbly finished, and ornamented in the height of the present taste drawn by beautiful horses, which are glittering with the richness of their trappings -- which carriage is attended, by servants, its complete livery, approaches, while the Lady issuing therefrom, exhibits in her dress, a perfect pattern of simplicity -- The Buildings, as I have observed, are highly elevated, and the ascent to them is, in many instances, by a flight of marble steps fancifully turned, and even polished -- The furniture of the houses is in a rich, and highly ornamented style so that it is only by their personal habiliments, that the Quaker can now be distinguished. I call this peculiarly whimsical, because as it is not uniform in its operations, it seems to merit the charge of caprice -- I confess there is elegance -- in a plain garment to which the motley vagaries of fashion would in vain pretend -- but when plainness is adopted in a religious view, should it not be consistent, should it not involve the several articles which come under our jurisdiction? The Quakers contend for their Thee , and their Thou, in a grammatical view, and I believe they are correct -- The frugality of the Philadelphians hath been said to border upon perniciousness -- and they have been accused as unsociable, and inhospitable -- We have found them greatly the reverse -- I asked a Lady, from whence an idea, apparently so foreign from the truth, could be derived? Perhaps her reply may be accepted as a real state of the case -- "Philadelphia is a thorough fare -- Multitudes are constantly passing, and repassing -- Strangers -- without an introduction -- present themselves -- they tarry for a night, and are gone -- and receiving no particular attention, they pronounce us illiberal, and contracted -- But were we to distinguish every transient Passenger, we should be engaged in a constant round of visiting, and it would surely be a frivolous kind of life, which should be hourly boding us to persons whom we never before saw, nor perhaps ever expected to meet again -- But trust me, Madam the constant resident, or even the traveller, who taketh time to form connexions, will find the Philadelphians open, generous, affable, and humane. Monday last Mr Peale was obliging enough to present us with tickets of admission to his Museum -- which gives us access at pleasure -- This Museum contains a collection of curiosities from sea, earth, and air -- Availing ourselves of the politeness of Mr Peale, we have repeatedly visited his Museum, and we have enjoyed an entertainment of the highest kind -- The Museum is a spacious oblong room -- It is pierced by a large opening at one end, and lighted horizontally at the other, a handsome arched ceiling, commences in the Centre, which is continued to the Further extremities of the room [--] The curiosities are judiciously, and tastefully displayed, and the Gallery is lined with portraits of the most illustrious Personages who have figured in the late Revolution -- The American Hero, with many of his General Officers, the most respectable Presidents of the old Congress -- Secretaries, and many distinguished Citizens -- The train of French Worthies, such as the Marquis La Fayette, Count de Rochambeau, Lazerne, Gerrard etc etc [--] A cursory view will not admit an enumeration of the natural Curiosities -- They consist of Marine substances, fossiles[,] fish of various kinds, insects, birds from the fabled Pelican, down to the smallest American Humming Bird, with a large collection of Quadrapedes -- These animals are all exactly preserved, both in form, and beauty, and not a feather of the gayest plumage is faded, or in the least disordered -- Their eyes indeed are artificial but they seem to beam with the expression of Nature, and the affect produced upon the mind, when considering ourselves surrounded by the associated inhabitants of every element is beyond description -- Linneus reckons six classes of animals, and he places insects in the fifth, which he again subdivides into seven orders -- These are exhibited in the Museum, through glasses, according to their succession, and the most scrupulous regularity is preserved -- Many efforts of art are also shown in Peale's Museum, among which a knot of flowers, cut in paper, by a girl who was born without either hands, or arms, making use of her toes instead of fingers! with likenesses of the King, and queen of France, executed upon white sattin, and produced by a single spark of electricity, are not the least considerable -- we are also shown an elegant manuscript copy of the Alcoran, written in Arabic, and neatly framed and glassed -- A piece of the Bastile, that so recently formidable grave of the imprisoned, is also laid up here -- But when I would assay the smallest sketch, such an infinite variety crouds upon me, that imagination, visiting this Cabinet of curiosities, is lost amid the multifarious collection -- Mr P-- exhibits several living animals among which is a number of the most beautiful birds -- That curiosity of Nature the Opossum, and the Hyaena, confined in iron cages, are also to be seen here -- Mr Peale is, you will judge, a virtuoso -- he is too, a very respectable artist, and his moving pictures recently exhibited, were productive of the highest satisfaction They have been unfortunately injured but he is endeavouring to prepare them for a display previous to our departure -- He was obliging enough to indulge us with a beautiful sample, the last morning we called upon him -- It was a perspective view of a mill seat, near the falls of Schuylkill -- The azure sky is out spread, and the distant prospects rise around -- The glazing stream, gently glides in the trembling dam, when sucking down in a torrent, it forms a romantic Cascade, making its way through the Arches of a neat, well finished Bridge, in a copiously flowing, and beautifully natural manner -- the view is ornamented by umbrageous trees, through which appear the mill house, with the water wheel performing with amazing velocity, its revolutions and dashing around its humid spray. By what machinery this wonderful effect is produced I know not, but certainly the delineation of nature, in perfect motion, must be confessed a surprising attainment of Art. At the entrance of the Museum is placed a wax figure of Mr Peale, which so near[l]y resembles life, as to be absolutely, by a late Indian Chief, mistaken for the Artist himself. This Aboriginie, had obtained among his tribe, the Chicktaws, the highest degree of honour -- Having, for as many intrepid acts, received his tenth name of applause -- beyond which distinction, he could never advance -- he was upwards of eighty years old, when he was deputed by the Chicktaw, and Cherokee Indians, to lay their requisitions, relative to the fulfillment of a late treaty, before the Convention of the delegates of the United States, then setting for the purpose of forming a constitution, on the City of Philadelphia -- The first article with which the Indian Warrior was careful [to] provide himself, was a wig, of which he was remarkably fond -- to which he added a hat, and a walking stick, thus accommodating himself with a weapon of defense or as it might have happened, of offence [--] This Indian betrayed all the peculiarities of his Countrymen, and was of course grave, sententious, and respectable -- He had not a word of English but his gestures were so expressive, and his observations so accurate, that it was easy to comprehend him, or to give him every necessary information -- General Washington called upon him -- the Hero of Nature was unfortunately absent; the General called a second time, but the delegate was again abroad -- he however returned before the General had passed far from the Inn and, informed of the Visitor, by whom he had again been honoured, with surprising alacrity he speeded after him, a number of spectators were drawn to their doors, and windows, to witness this uncommon interview, thus destined to pass in the streets -- The Indian advanced close to the General, then receding a few steps, placed his hat under his arm, pointing significantly to the heavens, and to the Earth, drew with his cane the figurative Circle, and after performing the most profound obeisance, presented his hand -- for some time they seemed to confer, and the aged Chief returned to his Inn, much elated by his reception, giving his attendants to understand, that the Great Sachem had invited him to take wine with him, upon the ensuing day
With the figure of Mr Peale, as I said this savage was greatly struck, and there was nothing he beheld, which appeared to him so utterly incomprehensible. I had intended to have sketched for you, the circle of connexions, which we have formed in this City but momently enlarging, the attempt is become of too great magnitude for a letter -- I will however note, as a memento to myself, a few of the most prominent figures -- I flatter myself that Mrs Woodrow, and her family, hath already obtained, in the bosom of my friends, a degree of consideration -- I am too much indebted to Doctor Dunlap, and his Lady, not to have long since introduced their names -- Mr & and Mrs Mackie are people of fortune, their manners are pleasingly interesting; they are generous, open, and hospitable, and they have bestowed us uncommon attention -- Mrs Mackie is delicately feminine, she is a native of New York, highly accomplished, and truly elegant -- She takes a deep and a very natural interest, in the truths promulgated by Mr Murray -- her professions to me are sweetly soothing, and, if I would avail myself of her liberality, she would load me with pecuniary favours. Mr & Mrs Ball, I have, as I believe already mentioned -- Mrs Wescot and Mrs Keppel are widow Ladies of immense fortunes, by whom we have been regarded with marked and flattering attention. With Marshall, a Quaker gentleman, we have enjoyed some delightful hours -- he is an able advocate for Universalism, and I have been charmed with his manuscripts. He hath laid the Companion of his youth in her bed of death -- but he is surrounded by a numerous family of children, and grand children, his house is neat, and decently furnished, and he hath a large, and well chosen library -- We passed our time in this library until summoned to tea, and, as we listened to the white hour at sage, we could not but confess the moments marked by wisdom -- I have already mentioned the family of Doctor Franklin -- We yesterday, by appointment, attended the Levee of his daughter Mrs Bache -- This Lady appears to be happy in her matrimonial connexion -- the countenance of Mr Bache is agreeable, its manly expression is tempered by a prepossessing sweetness, his figure is good, and his character highly respectable -- Mrs Bache is a most amiable Woman, easy of access, affable, and perfectly engaging, and there is in her every feature, an open frankness, which cannot fail of giving pleasure, she hath been well educated and consequently possesses a cultivated mind, and the social complacency of her manners, is descriptive of the woman thoroughly well bred, she hath a promising family of children, consisting of four sons, and three daughters -- she now resides in the Mansion home of the late Doctor -- It is, although in the very heart of the City, an elegant Retirement. We enter through an arched avenue, which immediately produces us in a square, seemingly detached from the noise, and confusion of the Town, although, in fact it is but a few paces from Market street -- The building is in the Philadelphia manner, lofty and commodious -- The furniture is neat, and the collection of pictures Capital, highly descriptive of the best Art --
We were shown Chinese figures, of rich Porcelain, superbly habited after the manner of their country, and their robes proclaimed them of no vulgar character -- We were introduced into the Library of Doctor Franklin -- the collection of Volumes is prodigious, I never saw it surpassed, except in the Cambridge University -- The library is ornamented by the Bishop of St Asass and his family, and, as I surveyed these figures, the books, the writing desk, and considered myself in the favourite recess of the illustrious deceased, my sensations were -- but language is inadequate to their description -- We were entertained with vocal, and instrumental music, and no attempt to contribute to our amusement was left unessayed -- upon a beautiful Lawn, embosomed by the willow, the weeping willow, and a rich variety of fruit trees, under the wide spreading shade of the Catolphin, now in full, and enchanting blow, the tea table, with a number of seats, was placed, and by the deliciously scented evening breeze, we were sweetly fanned -- Mrs Bache speaks of her Father, in a manner becoming a daughter -- Upon his patience, his equanimity, and his fortitude, she dwells with peculiar pleasure -- His illness was tedious, and his agonies of the most peculiar kind -- yet he was always Master of himself, and a smile of serenity constantly irradicated his countenance -- Two days before his death he observed, to his daughter, that he did not recollect, in the course of his whole life, ever being for a single moment angry with her, and Mrs Bache adds, that the whole tenor of his conduct, was most endearing -- No pang, however severe, possessed the power to ruffle his temper, not the meanest servant could administer to his necessities, but it was exactly right -- every thing prepared for him was delightful and to attend upon him, was thus rendered truly pleasurable; Mrs Bache, seems to have drank deeply from the fountain of Republicanism -- she declares, had heaven given her any number of boys, they should every one be furnished with a mechanical Art -- Her eldest Son hath completed his apprenticeship to a Printer, and she directed herself, with the effect which this circumstance had, upon a young coxcomb, passing on in the stage with young Bache, to a neighbouring City -- The descendant of Franklin exhibited the marks of a gentleman, and the Fop inquired into the nature of his pursuits -- "I am a Printer Sir--" What Sir, a Printer! and he instantly ordered into his features, the most contemptuous expression -- observing, during the remainder of the journey, the most obstinate taciturnity. Mrs Bache suffered much during the late troubles -- When the British advanced to Philadelphia, she had been no more than three days confined to her bed of maternity -- Mr Bache was not in the City, he had accepted a post under Congress -- Hard money she had none -- for the family had loaned to government, immediately upon the commencement of the Contest, every farthing which they could command -- Thus destitute of the means of support, when the English should take possession, and apprehensive of the treatment which she should receive, she was obliged to quit her home, and fly for safety, her first stage was distant thirteen miles, where believing herself in a state of temporary safety she abode three weeks, when she pursued her way across the Country thirty miles further, where she continued two years, enduring a variety of hardships -- With the name of Doctor Rush, you are familiar, and my catalogue of etceteras, I must reserve, until I have the happiness of joining once more, our domestic Circle -- When this period will be, I am unable to say, but you will do me the justice to believe, that no effort in my power shall be lacking, to accelerate its approach -- I think we shall leave Philadelphia in a week, or two, but being necessitated to pay so many visits upon the road, our progress homeward will be but slow -- yet, be assured, my ever honoured parents, that wherever we may be, we are unitedly, duteously, and affectionately yours -- Item -- At the Levee of Mrs Bache, we met the celebrated Mrs Henry, the present principal of the American company of Players, and Miss Henry, her daughter, a beautiful, and accomplished Girl, about thirteen years of age -- Mrs Henry is personally acquainted with, and thus often played with the celebrated Mrs Siddons -- Item [--] the Reverend Doctor Smith & Lady -- The Reverend Mr Rogers & Lady with Mr & Mrs Davison, have shown us so many civilities, that gratitude impels us to give them a place, among my prominent figures --